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I had a 2001 Mustang Cobra and the clutch was such a pain in the butt. If your clutch works fine when cold, but becomes less functional after it heats up... you most likely need a new clutch, clutch bearing, clutch cable, and must have the flywheel machined to mesh properly with the new clutch. Clutches are considered wear and tear items. How long they last entirely depends on how you drive.

I upgraded to two separate Spec Stage 2 clutches in the past, but in the end they wore out quickly even with proper shifting and an aluminum flywheel. Looking back, I would have opted for a stock clutch replacement which is harder to press, but seems to be more durable than the aftermarket clutches out there.

If there is fluid leaking from the transmission area. First check to see which fluid it is. Oil (Brown), Transmission fluid (Red), Radiator fluid (Green), Fuel (Yellow, very toxic gas smell), Water (Clear, no smell). If red, you have a leak in a gasket somewhere. I'd take it in to the dealer and have them check it out and give you an estimate. Ford charges for this test, about $70, but at least you find out exactly what the problem is.

On a 1995 F150 the slave is interior the bell housing and till you have the jacks and lifts to tug the transmission you will screw up the splines as they might desire to be correct aligned interior. If motor vehicle has over 100K and the transmission is right down to do the slave you would be stupid to no longer in basic terms do the snatch and throwout bearing. it is not any activity for a rookie. I pondered it even nevertheless it may be insane. There are tricks to bleeding the device too and in case you do no longer do it precise it won't artwork. it is an previous submit yet for all of us thinking approximately doing this activity they might desire to appreciate the complexity of the internal workings of a tranny and snatch.